Day 9: The Tao of Moo

GRASONVILLE, MD —

April 2, 2024

Day 9:

Approaching the intersection of Starr and Centreville roads on my way from Tuckahoe State Park to Grasonville, the gaze from my rain-splattered glasses was met by that of two cows—one black, the other white.

The duality of their coats stood out to me, even though all they were doing was staring and chewing cud. Likewise, my own distinction from the zooming vehicles next to me must’ve stood out to them, even though all I was doing was staring and marching. Within this moment, I felt neutrality.

Further ahead, my feet soaking wet and the now disgruntled brain attached to them roughly a mile too far from Queenstown (a town between Grasonville and Tuckahoe), I felt the earth pounding closer and closer to me from behind the front yard tree line of a farmhouse I walked beside along the road.

Bursting through the thicket: first, growls, then, a large angry dog bearing teeth with no intention of halting.

I stepped back and roared as loudly as I could (which ain’t much), then prodded the pointed ends of my trekking polls at the rapidly approaching muzzle of some other person’s best friend.

No one was hurt, but we both had the understanding that I would be on my way, which, in my mind, I was already. Within this moment, I felt chaos.

Before arriving in Grasonville, I stopped at Queenstown Pizzeria. Upon entering, I asked the man at the front counter if he served stinky thru-hikers. His name was Omar, and after asking where I was headed and why, he gifted me a generously sized slice of cheese pizza out of his own pocket.

As I ate, he sat with me and shared his path of being a father of three. He told me he respected me for having the courage to leave everything behind and hit the road, but we both knew there is no greater act of courage for a man than providing for and loving his children. Even so, he was so humble as to pay me the compliment in addition to my meal. I set out with gratitude for having met this man.

An hour later, I finally arrived in Grasonville with my stomach full, thanks to Omar, and my first 20-mile day completed. Within this moment, I felt serenity.

I settled into a hotel and reflected on the returned gaze of cows, who, if they could have, would have observed my entire day without judgement, merely noticing the distinctions of the path witnessed.